Phew!! I ssure am ssore. Ok - HUGE showing at the rock on sunday just
shake & bake and myself at ragged. Other climbers must have been working
on that 5.couch move at home!! Shake wanted to rope up cemetery vault
5.7 but it looked too hard?? So we roped up anal crack (5.9-) and siso
(5.8+). Ironically I had a bleeding hangnail before the start. PUke
master on A.C. first, easy up until the crack (and it was tight crack)
went inverted Finaly jamed my RIGHT hand into the top of the anal crack
to get up, then nice climb to the top.. SB passed on siso - (bee's), so
he tried A.C. and made it up to wear his feet were on 2 cheeks, then
came off many times. I climb siso 5.8+ (reall nice climb!! actually
f'ing sweet!!). Then SB again on A.C. made it past the cheeks one move
to the ACL (*anal crack lunge). Next up I have a brainfart and decide
we can reroute the rope from anal to hangover and then from hangover to
aids crack by using some trees that are 1/2 way up , webbing and beaners
- shake a skeptic but it worked. Hangover 5.9 (IE 5.bitch from hell)
was almost impossible to start and lots of talk on the way up "F$%#" -
at least 50 times, "bitch" , "c@#$", and many combinations of the
three..., etc.. I make it up but shake can't get the start. Hangnail
5.10a I nail on the second ascent and rookie makes the first 2 moves
(nice!!). Alot of passers by were showing some plumbers crack and
hanging out under the anal crack(it was sunday). Finally, the aids
crack 5.10 b, im feeling drained, tired, dizzy and out of energy but try
it anyway. At one point I only had one finger in the crack with no feet
- ouch. Did I make the aids crack ? "negative", shake wouldn't even try
it. I don't know how you would go about placing protection for leading
this climb!!
Next outdoor climb we will be attemting VDwall, millions of dead
crabs, and the horizontal clap - yes indeed I am sick - no pun intended.
All you potatoes missed a great climb! Buckets of sore feet (hacksawed
at the ankles of course) or just buckets of sores yeah thats it! Recaps
are'nt just for breakfast anymore.
PM